La New Yorkaise: fall winter 2012

Showing posts with label fall winter 2012. Show all posts

21 February 2012

London Fashion Week Favorites, Part II.

Burberry Prorsum

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While it is incredibly difficult for Christopher Bailey to live up to last spring’s phenomenal Burberry Prorsum showing, he managed a strong, cohesive follow up for Fall 2012. Playing with shape and volume, Bailey used ruffles, quilting, and texture to reinvent the classic Burberry staples. Bow belts dominated the catwalk, emphasizing an enhanced womanly figure while, interestingly positioned, contrasting cargo pockets distorted the classicism of the hourglass silhouette. If there’s anything one can learn from Christopher Bailey, it is that you can reinvent the wheel and succeed.

Christopher Kane

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CHRISTOPHER KANE. This man is clearly a freakin’ genius. In a stunning collection that moved, much like a color wheel, from black to blue to purple to red, was as much as an emotional experience as it was an aesthetic one. Ingenious optically textured fabrics were the constant in this season’s Kane wardrobe. Much like the galaxy print before it and the mirror-spotted textiles before that, this is destined to become an international trend to be knocked off for seasons to come. Interspersed with leather accents, knits, and slick animal prints, this innovative textile created an image of the future. One in which conservative, business dressing is a relic of the past, and creativity reigns supreme. A++ for Kane.

Giles

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Giles Fall 2012 embodies an “Eyes Wide Shut” meets English school marme aesthetic. It’s an unlikely combination, but ultimately a successful one. From a new take on Le Smoking to a deliciously perverse take on the school girl uniform, Giles is a collection that tests the limits of memory and shared reference. For fashion theorists, this is a collection to feast on for years to come. For fashion enthusiasts, its a collection that's at once familiar and subversive. One to be remembered.

Peter Pilotto

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Peter Pilotto seems to have turned a mildly pleasant, if not overwhelming, acid trip into a fashion dream. Fall 2012 boasts bright, primary colors, mind-bending graphics, and thoroughly sexy shapes. This is not the collection for every woman, but it is a collection for the daring ones. Destined to be seen on street style star Taylor Tomasi Hill, this collection is a benchmark for London’s independent spirit.

19 February 2012

London Fashion Week, Part I

London Fashion Week has begun, I can already tell that things are about to get INSANE. Assuming that you care, here are my favorite shows so far.

Topshop Unique

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Drawing on decidedly feminist eras, this season’s Unique collection was obviously and ode to strong women. Styled by former British Vogue editor Kate Phelan, the collection favored silhouettes popularized during the second world war--wide leg pants, functional jackets, and belted shirt dresses in muted khaki, burgundy, and slate. The slouchy forms were particularly pervasive and were reminiscent of the early Parisian garconnes who favored the ease of wear that men’s garments afforded them over Dior’s New Look. Ending the show with updated-flapper silhouettes was a stellar choice, bringing a sense of glamorous, functional nonchalance to an already strong outing. The garments’ conjure the historical relationship between fashion and women’s liberation. Unique’s intellectual and historically reverent turn is bound to be a retail success and is a sign of bigger and better things for the Topshop brand.

Simone Rocha

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London is, if nothing else, an incubator for great talent and Simone Rocha’s first runway presentation is a stunning example of that. 25 consistently strong, meticulously crafted looks comprised her fall collection. While the silhouettes tended toward updated classics--the boyfriend blazer, peplum tops, and collared shift dresses--the unexpected fabrics elevated the collection’s successes. Tulle overlays, transparent, dream-like lace, and well-worked wools provided a new perspective on casual dressing and solidified Rocha’s place among London’s designers to watch.

John Rocha

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In past seasons it was easy to perceive John Rocha’s work as a sort of McQueen-light alternative. This season, the Hong Kong-born designer (and father of Simone) came into his own, defining his surprisingly elegant, post-goth aesthetic. Models dressed in over sized belted furs read as graceful, brooding avian creatures, while open knits and sheer patchwork construction balanced the show’s serious tone.

Johnathan Saunders

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A phenomenal season for Johnathan Saunders. Optical illusion prints, unexpected color, and slightly skewed takes on classic silhouettes make this collection particularly exciting. The collections outerwear is particularly successful, as it manages to reinvent the classic pea coat in a range of unexpected colors and textiles. I’m very much a fan of the almost-perverse take on the standard British plaid which promises to be a street style staple in the season to come.

14 February 2012

New York Fashion Week Favorites, Part II.

New York Fashion Week continues and so do my unsolicited opinions...

Theyskens’ Theory

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I adore Olivier Theyskens. Just when I expect to see a consistent collection of perfect slouchy basics and well-tailored separates, he unleashes luxe winter wear replete with beading, silks, and lush wools. If it couldn’t get any better, he sent so many formal shorts down the runway, I couldn’t contain my excitement. I LOVE a formal short. And I really love them in leather.

Derek Lam

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Lam’s Fall 2012 collection proves that he is an over-acheiver. This season’s collection is clearly the work of a perfectionist, balancing the fashion industry’s renewed love of prints and the codes of a classic New York wardrobe. The paired-down, minimalist formal wear may not prove to be a hit on the red carpet circuit, but it’s bound to be on every fashion girl’s shopping list come fall.

Thom Browne

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In case you forgot that New York has some insane fashion, no worries, Thom Browne will remind you of our avant garde sensibilities. Shapes exaggerated the human form, bringing the almost two dimensional models into 3D. There's a simultaneous sentiment of both melancholy and humor in this collection (and perhaps a small nod to the late and great Alexander McQueen?). This is a collection for the thinking fashion enthusiast and it just works.

Marc Jacobs

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Full disclosure, I worked for Marc Jacobs not too long ago, so I may be biased, but OMG. Fashion hasn't been this much fun since Wall Street killed the economy and took creativity in consumer goods along with it. Thank you Marc for reminding us all that it's just fashion and that's frickin' fabulous.

13 February 2012

New York Fashion Week Favorites, Part I.

Living in Paris has its advantages (namely croissants, wine, and cheese), but I always miss being in New York for Fashion Week. While London tends to foster its young talent more effectively and Paris has the very obvious benefit of couture influences, New York’s penchant for truly innovative ready to wear has a place in my heart. So in honor of this beautiful Monday morning, let’s sum up some of the best collections from NYFW so far...

Alexander Wang

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God knows I love a good jacket, and Alexander Wang made a whole lot of them. Sleek, high shine fabrics in unexpected shapes were an exciting alternative from usually bland fall winter outerwear options. And to make me even happier, he added a sick, soon-to be-ubiquitous, knee high boot. I prefer this thoughtful reinterpretation of classic pieces to last season’s athletic leaning collection.

Prabal Gurung

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Prabal made the ultimate cool girl pant this season. Prabal’s skinny flares are going to be everywhere next winter. Topshop should start working on the knockoff now (and a denim version too), because this shit’s about to become the drainpipe alternative.

Altuzarra

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Altuzarra’s printed pants are a winter-fied version of spring’s most unavoidable trend. (Have you seen the pre-spring collection at Zara? Flowers. EVERYWHERE.) But they have a well-traveled sensibility about them. Paired with some serious over-the-knee boots (reminiscent of Gucci Fall/Winter 2008, no?) they make an unexpected impact.

Timo Weiland

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If there’s one trend I’m always hoping will make its return, its Grunge. I fell in love with it in the 90s when Marc Jacobs did it at Perry Ellis and I’m ecstatic every time the fashion cycle brings it back around. Timo Weiland made grunge for the moody fashion girls, and I fucking love it.