The Stunning Resurrection of McQ

Like a phoenix from the ashes, McQ has been brilliantly resurrected. The diffusion line of the incomparable house of Alexander McQueen, has been reworked and relaunched under the direction of Sarah Burton. Where McQ was once a shadow of the house’s main line, it now offers a fully-fledged, iconic perspective of its own. 

London Fashion Week Favorites, Part III.

The final installment of London Fashion Week. These last two designers had stand out, mind blowing collections. A perfect snapshot of why London Fashion Week rocks.

Erdem

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Image via style.com

Erdem, a brand now known around the world for clothing Princess Kate in their exquisitely detailed lace, is swiftly ascending to fashion stardom. Instead of playing it safe and riding on royal coat tails, the brand is pushing boundaries by incorporating unexpected elements into their proper English garments. Rubber trimmings, oversized faux jewels, and lucite brought an improper edge to lady-like ensembles. The overall experience was impactful, perhaps shocking. But, Sometimes the most off-beat aesthetics are the most beautiful.

Mary Katrantzou

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Image via style.com

Just days after the release of her Topshop collaboration, Mary Katrantzou’s main line showed in London to spectacular success. Playing with both exaggerated form and print,Katrantzou’s Fall 2012 showing is an impressive display of the designer’s talent and potential for growth. It’s easy think that Katrantzou’s print-centric style will quickly become overwrought and tedious, but she continually overcomes expectations. This collection is by no means an exception. It seems that origami forms are a central trope of this season’s offerings on a global scale and Katrantzou has maximized their potential through her signature strategically mismatched prints. Katrantzou's evening offerings are especially impressive, taken her eccentric style and rendering it black-tie appropriate without sacrificing style or perspective.

London Fashion Week Favorites, Part II.

Burberry Prorsum

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Image via style.com

While it is incredibly difficult for Christopher Bailey to live up to last spring’s phenomenal Burberry Prorsum showing, he managed a strong, cohesive follow up for Fall 2012. Playing with shape and volume, Bailey used ruffles, quilting, and texture to reinvent the classic Burberry staples. Bow belts dominated the catwalk, emphasizing an enhanced womanly figure while, interestingly positioned, contrasting cargo pockets distorted the classicism of the hourglass silhouette. If there’s anything one can learn from Christopher Bailey, it is that you can reinvent the wheel and succeed. 

Christopher Kane

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Image via style.com

CHRISTOPHER KANE. This man is clearly a freakin’ genius. In a stunning collection that moved, much like a color wheel, from black to blue to purple to red, was as much as an emotional experience as it was an aesthetic one. Ingenious optically textured fabrics were the constant in this season’s Kane wardrobe. Much like the galaxy print before it and the mirror-spotted textiles before that, this is destined to become an international trend to be knocked off for seasons to come. Interspersed with leather accents, knits, and slick animal prints, this innovative textile created an image of the future. One in which conservative, business dressing is a relic of the past, and creativity reigns supreme. A++ for Kane.

Giles

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Image via style.com

Giles Fall 2012 embodies an “Eyes Wide Shut” meets English school marme aesthetic. It’s an unlikely combination, but ultimately a successful one. From a new take on Le Smoking to a deliciously perverse take on the school girl uniform, Giles is a collection that tests the limits of memory and shared reference. For fashion theorists, this is a collection to feast on for years to come. For fashion enthusiasts, its a collection that's at once familiar and subversive. One to be remembered.

Peter Pilotto

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Image via style.com

Peter Pilotto seems to have turned a mildly pleasant, if not overwhelming, acid trip into a fashion dream. Fall 2012 boasts bright, primary colors, mind-bending graphics, and thoroughly sexy shapes. This is not the collection for every woman, but it is a collection for the daring ones. Destined to be seen on street style star Taylor Tomasi Hill, this collection is a benchmark for London’s independent spirit.