21 February 2012

London Fashion Week Favorites, Part II.


Burberry Prorsum

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While it is incredibly difficult for Christopher Bailey to live up to last spring’s phenomenal Burberry Prorsum showing, he managed a strong, cohesive follow up for Fall 2012. Playing with shape and volume, Bailey used ruffles, quilting, and texture to reinvent the classic Burberry staples. Bow belts dominated the catwalk, emphasizing an enhanced womanly figure while, interestingly positioned, contrasting cargo pockets distorted the classicism of the hourglass silhouette. If there’s anything one can learn from Christopher Bailey, it is that you can reinvent the wheel and succeed. 

Christopher Kane

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CHRISTOPHER KANE. This man is clearly a freakin’ genius. In a stunning collection that moved, much like a color wheel, from black to blue to purple to red, was as much as an emotional experience as it was an aesthetic one. Ingenious optically textured fabrics were the constant in this season’s Kane wardrobe. Much like the galaxy print before it and the mirror-spotted textiles before that, this is destined to become an international trend to be knocked off for seasons to come. Interspersed with leather accents, knits, and slick animal prints, this innovative textile created an image of the future. One in which conservative, business dressing is a relic of the past, and creativity reigns supreme. A++ for Kane.

Giles

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Giles Fall 2012 embodies an “Eyes Wide Shut” meets English school marme aesthetic. It’s an unlikely combination, but ultimately a successful one. From a new take on Le Smoking to a deliciously perverse take on the school girl uniform, Giles is a collection that tests the limits of memory and shared reference. For fashion theorists, this is a collection to feast on for years to come. For fashion enthusiasts, its a collection that's at once familiar and subversive. One to be remembered.

Peter Pilotto

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Peter Pilotto seems to have turned a mildly pleasant, if not overwhelming, acid trip into a fashion dream. Fall 2012 boasts bright, primary colors, mind-bending graphics, and thoroughly sexy shapes. This is not the collection for every woman, but it is a collection for the daring ones. Destined to be seen on street style star Taylor Tomasi Hill, this collection is a benchmark for London’s independent spirit. 

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